An easy way to bring a slick back to a sharp edge if it needs to be taken back because of damage or a round edge is on a belt sander. After this step sharpen the edge with stones.  In between sharpenings you may hone with sharpening sticks. Every month or so go back and sharpen with stones. This process may work for you.

   Unless a nail or staple is hit or driftwood impregnated with sand is being carved, this tool will hold a razor edge and you will have to use a belt sander only when taking back the edge or when it is damaged. Honing with leather, a sanding stick or a honing stone tends to round the edge over time. On a slick or adze edge (a fish tail slick blade is an adze head on a straight handle) the edge should be slightly rounded on the back going into the razor sharp cutting edge so that it won't stick in your work.  As the edge becomes rounded from honing, it will begin to be difficult to sharpen.  The sharpening process on a belt sander would mainly be to slightly reduce this rounding to get the edge back for honing.

 

We forge our slicks from headsaw steel. It is a high quality steel. 

 

  High carbon steel is easier to put an edge on, and that edge holds.  Due to the alloy content, lumber mill saw steel is better still at holding that edge.

  When the slick needs to be taken back or has lost its edge due to repeated honings start sharpening with a 220 grit belt on a sander (a small belt sander secured upside down in a vise is fine).  Practice. Stand to the side of the machine, be at eye level (wear goggles) to the edge so that you can see when and where the round just before the edge touches the belt.  The belt will be turning against the edge. Start at one end of the cutting edge and rock the tool evenly along the edge while turning the blade with its curve, almost shaving the belt . When a burr can be felt on the bevelled side, stop. Take the burr off with a stone or a sanding stick.   Be aware, if you hesitate with the blade on the belt, the edge will burn and you will lose all hardness in that blue burned spot.

Use a clean even rocking motion. Have a pail of water beside you to cool the blade off when it gets warm.

 

  In the next step I describe how to sharpen without a sanding machine by using your body weight and stones. Wear gloves and make sure your slick is secured.

 

  Now that the bulk is off bring the edge in closer with a stone.  Secure the slick in a vise (protect the handle with a towel or rag). Use a long oil or water stone, 6.25cm x 30cm (2 1/2" x11 1/2"),  600 grit on one side 800 on the other (or  similar).  Do the back side, as shown in the picture while taking the burr off the bevelled side. This puts a good edge on. Use a honing stone and lastly, hone with a leather stick with a honing compound rubbed into it . Jewellers rouge rubbed into a piece of 7cm x 30cm (3" x 12") thick 8 - 10 oz leather glued to the same dimension of 5/8 - 3/4" plywood works for all edge tools. The slick should be able to shave.

  It's sharp, now to keep it razor sharp.

Take a 3.75cm X 1.25cm x 35cm  (1 1/2" x 1/2" x 14") piece of lumber and wrap it with a sheet of 600 grit wet /dry sandpaper. Start wrapping at one end of the board leaving the other end for a handle.  With this tool you can give your blade a few swipes every so often.  Drill a hole in the handle end so you can tie it to your belt.

When it gets fillled up, wash it. When it tears rip off a layer.

CARIBOO BLADES Handforged                Tools & Working Knives

How to Sharpen a fish tail slick